Read Book Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
Now you can Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life with detailed description:Product Description
A deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer by the acclaimed New Yorker writer
Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves.
Finnegan shares stories of life in a whitesonly gang in a tough school in Honolulu even while his closest friend was a Hawaiian surfer. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. He and a buddy, their knapsacks crammed with reef charts, bushwhack through Polynesia. They discover, while camping on an uninhabited island in Fiji, one of the world’s greatest waves. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he becomes an improbable anthropologist: unpicking the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissecting the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, navigating the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity.
Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little understood art. Today, Finnegan’s surfing life is undiminished. Frantically juggling work and family, he chases his enchantment through Long Island ice storms and obscure corners of Madagascar.
Product Details
- Sales Rank: #3952 in Books
- Published on: 2015-07-21
- Released on: 2015-07-21
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 9.25" h x 1.16" w x 6.13" l, 1.00 pounds
- Binding: Hardcover
- 464 pages
Right now, you could see that hundreds thousands of people trying to find free book Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life book's and read it on the sweat residence with connection to the internet. Possibly be happy, you can certainly reach thousands and thousands of happy members who became sick and tired of waiting for book within the mail, and you will reading Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life. You will get new books on the net books, and down load books in each of our site. It can be fast, quick, best of all to try out.
... Enjoy Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life ...
Related Books :
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life (Hardcover) Book Passage A deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer by the acclaimed" New Yorker "writer "Barbarian Days" is William Finnegan's memoir of an obsession, a complex ... Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life Penguin Press As it progresses the whole book turns into a portalIts tempting to say that Barbarian Days will bring readers as close as theyll get to the surf, short of ... Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life Audiobook William ... Barbarian Days is William Finnegan's memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a ... Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan ... Barbarian Days is William Finnegans memoir of an obsession, ... Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life. William Finnegan. ONE. OFF DIAMOND HEAD. Honolulu , 1966 67. Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan ... Barbarian Days has 7 ratings and 4 reviews. Beth said: Oddly enough since I have always lived on the Northern plains and have only been to the ocean a fe... Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life: William Finnegan, Meghan ... Barbarian Days is William Finnegans memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a ... Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life - Surfd A deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer by the acclaimed New Yorker writer. Barbarian Days is William Finnegans memoir of an obsession, a complex ... Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life: William Finnegan ... Bookforum: As it progresses the whole book turns into a portalIts tempting to say that Barbarian Days will bring readers as close as theyll get to the ...
Kommentar veröffentlichen